Beyoncé’s Oscars Dress Designer on What Goes Into Making a Star’s Gown

Hours earlier than Will Smith slapped Chris Rock, Beyoncé delivered the primary main Oscars second of the night time. The singer opened the 94th Academy Awards on Sunday along with her highest-profile televised efficiency in practically two years. Beyoncé remodeled a tennis court docket in Compton, Calif. (the place the tennis greats Venus and Serena Williams skilled as youngsters) right into a tableau of neon-yellow and Black pleasure.

She sang “Be Alive,” her first Oscar-nominated tune, an anthem featured in “King Richard,” a biopic centered on the daddy of the Williams sisters. Beyoncé wore a tennis-ball-yellow feathered costume, paired with elbow-length gloves and a crystal garter. She was surrounded by scores of dancers and an orchestra in vibrant neon yellow seems of their very own.

Beyoncé’s robe instantly made the rounds on-line. (“Beyoncé trying like a high fashion tennis ball that is unimaginable,” one viewer tweeted.)

The designer behind one among final night time’s most talked about seems? David Koma, who lives in London and was the artistic director of the style home Mugler from 2013 to 2017. He additionally has his personal namesake line.

Mr. Koma has lengthy been a go-to for Beyoncé. The singer first wore a costume by Mr. Koma, 36, in 2009, for the MTV Europe Music Awards, which was pulled from his Central Saint Martins graduate assortment.

Mr. Koma mentioned he obtained a private invitation to one among her live shows shortly after, the place he met the singer. Since then, Beyoncé has worn plenty of his designs on and offstage, together with a glossy, leotard-adjacent creation featured within the Mrs. Carter Present World Tour, which kicked off in 2013, and a sequin-heavy Brooklyn Nets courtside look final yr.

“I used to be simply so comfortable to see her onstage,” Mr. Koma mentioned on Monday, talking by cellphone from London. The designer, who’s Georgian, mentioned Beyoncé first contacted him about final night time’s efficiency a few month in the past. (The singer’s efficiency was formally introduced just a few days before the ceremony.)

“The colour was the very first thing we determined we’d go for,” Mr. Koma mentioned. “Then it was extra concerning the silhouette and what the costume was presupposed to appear like. We mixed seems from two collections that I’ve accomplished. One was the autumn that we simply introduced, and the opposite one was the spring assortment that I showcased on the Olympic swimming pool designed by Zaha Hadid.”

His designs have additionally been worn by Dua Lipa, Anne Hathaway and Scarlett Johansson. Mr. Koma labored with the stylist Marni Senofonte on final night time’s look. As soon as the particulars had been decided, Mr. Koma mentioned, developing the costume took just a few days.

The attention-catching design is steeped in technical experience. “The principle factor about this costume is the fabric,” Mr. Koma mentioned. “It’s made of those recycled clear sequins that we’ve got. And it drapes extremely fantastically.” He mentioned his aim was to ship a really feel of “deconstructed glamour” for the singer, who has carried out as “Sasha Fierce,” her brash alter-ego, up to now.

This isn’t the primary time Mr. Koma has taken inspiration from tennis, which he has performed since he was 3 years outdated. Quite a few the seems featured in his spring 2021 assortment final yr had been impressed by the game.

“All through the years, I’ve labored with many alternative tennis gamers,” Mr. Koma mentioned, noting the game’s “power” and “energy.” “How can it not be inspiring?” he mentioned.

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