Food

Pizzeria Sei Pays Homage to Neapolitan Pizza in Los Angeles

However that is the joys of pizza — the way in which it develops, repeatedly, by means of digressions, idiosyncrasies, anomalies and diversifications. Via the overlapping work of the individuals who cook dinner it, day in, day trip.

Mr. Joo, who immigrated from South Korea as a teen, realized to make pizzas at Pizzana, Daniele Uditi’s Los Angeles restaurant, which makes lovely, typically even cheeky neo-Neapolitan pies. Later, he studied Mr. Kakinuma’s methods on-line, and noticed movies of Pizza Studio Tamaki and Savoy Pizza.

At Sei, he buys produce — basil, mushrooms, garlic, eggs — from the Santa Monica Farmers Market twice per week, and works with a yeasted dough that’s proofed slowly over the course of two days. His pizzas mirror each of the neo-Neapolitan kinds he studied, however they’re not solely both, nonetheless grafting towards his personal.

The salty margherita has a juicy, however not soggy middle, and the Bismarck comes with a tender-to-runny egg. My favourite is the white pie, the uncooked dough drawn throughout the counter so it’s shining, coated solely with a swirl of thick cream and fior di latte mozzarella, freckled with preserved lemon and obscenely giant glugs of olive oil.

I’ve eaten this pizza on the sun-baked metallic desk on the sidewalk, and in my automotive dashing down the Santa Monica Freeway — a slice is nearly structurally sound sufficient for this. However one of the simplest ways to take pleasure in it’s on the counter, straight from the oven, off the peel and onto a plate, the crust stuffed with steam, nonetheless hissing with life.

Pizzeria Sei, 8781 West Pico Boulevard, Los Angeles, 424-279-9800, pizzeriasei.com

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