Food

12 Bordeaux Wines, Made by Vignerons, to Drink Now

Château Massereau Vin de France Cuvée Custom 2018, 13.5 %, $27

Château Massereau makes each candy wines and dry reds like this one. This cuvée is mostly 60 % merlot, 30 % cabernet sauvignon, with the rest break up between cabernet franc and petit verdot. Massereau was once labeled Bordeaux Supérieur, however withdrew its wines from the appellation after operating afoul of the staid forms. It now bottles the dry wines as Vin de France. Regardless, it’s pointed, exact, savory and refreshing, structured however not tannic, with a slight natural edge. (Camille Rivière/Fruit of the Vines)

Credit score…Tony Cenicola/The New York Instances

Château Auney l’Hermitage Graves Blanc Cuvée Cana 2018, 13 %, $30

The virtues of dry white Bordeaux are a tough promote, probably as a result of good examples from one of the best areas, Pessac-Léognan and Graves, are costly and never simple to seek out. I really like white Bordeaux and I really like the succulence of the sémillon grape. (Cuvée Cana is 50 % sémillon, 35 % sauvignon blanc, 10 % sauvignon gris and 5 % muscadelle, an uncommon mix in a area the place sémillon and the opposite grapes have misplaced floor to sauvignon blanc.) Like chenin blanc, sémillon has a floral, honeyed taste, a mineral tang and a luscious texture that retains me rolling it round in my mouth as a result of it feels so good. Auney l’Hermitage farms its winery organically on gravelly sand and clay. (Rosenthal Wine Service provider, New York)

Credit score…Tony Cenicola/The New York Instances

Maison Blanche Montagne-St.-Émilion 2018, 14.5 %, $42

The Despagne household farms its Montagne-St.-Émilion winery biodynamically and makes its wines with minimal artifice. Relying on the classic, this wine will be anyplace from 20 % to 50 % cabernet franc, with the remainder merlot. The 2018 is dense and concentrated, with complicated flavors of darkish fruit, licorice and spices. It’s structured and may age for years. (Choice Massale)

Credit score…Tony Cenicola/The New York Instances

Clos du Jaugueyron Haut-Médoc 2017, 12.5 %, $45

Clos du Jaugueyron is certainly one of my favourite small Bordeaux estates. Its proprietor, Michel Théron, farms about 17 acres biodynamically, and his wines are deliciously pure. The Haut-Médoc is 60 % cabernet sauvignon, 33 % merlot and seven % petit verdot. It’s frivolously tannic, with floral, stony flavors, and is a pleasure to drink. Jaugueyron additionally makes an outstanding Margaux. (Choice Massale)

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